Mercedes Cruise Control Amplifier
Access Procedure
(Remove and Replace Cruise Amplifier)
Please note that these ideas and procedures are for someone who has the time, inclination and technical ability
to understand and follow them. There are other alternatives. We can generally tell you, over the phone or by email,
what is wrong with your system if you let us know what the symptoms are. Or, naturally, you can have your favorite
local qualified mechanic perform the work. Please do not hesitate to email or call us if you have questions or concerns.
The following procedure applies to most older MBZ models. On several models including the 300E
the Amplifier is more accessible; it is either in a compartment under the carpet on the front
passenger-side footrest or above the driver's left knee. If so, ignore the procedure below; there is no extra
bracket.
If you're unsure about the location, contact your favorite local mechanic or Mercedes-Benz dealer; they can tell you
exactly where to find the Amplifier and how to remove it.
- On early models (from 1976 through about 1989) the Amplifier is generally found mounted nearly vertically on
the driver side near the brake pedal and firewall. It is necessary to remove the kick panel.
- The Amplifier is housed in an aluminum can that measures approximately 1.25x4x6
inches.
- One end of the Amplifier has a male pin connector. The pre-1981 models have 10 pins
(numbered 3-12) and the later models have a 14-pin connector.
- The can has a riveted bracket which is held to the next bracket (which we'll call
bracket #2) with two phillips screws. These screws can be very tight and the top screw
is almost inaccessible.
- Bracket #2 is held in place by a single 10mm bolt. Here's the trick: Take off bracket
#2 first. (Don't mess with the phillips screws until you get the Amplifier and bracket #2
out of the vehicle.) The easiest way to remove the 10mm bolt is with a 10mm socket, a short
extension (2") and a small ratchet wrench.
- Carefully unplug the harness. (Before reinstallation, you should examine the female
pins for good electrical connection. It might be advisable to crimp them slightly (and
carefully) with small needle-nosed pliers.
- Once the Amplifer is out of the vehicle, if you find the phillips screws are too tight,
leave bracket #2 on; it won't hinder our remanufacture.
- Please see our "Interchange Document" or "Price List" for possible part numbers to
make sure that you have actually removed the Cruise Control Amplifier.
General Development Laboratories
121 Easter Street
Morro Bay, CA 93442
805 772-5588